18 June 2004

Tortoise World


I am continually amazed at how much I have learnt in Coffee Bay about South Africa and in particular the Xhosa culture. It is a rich yet complex country that celebrates "10 years of democracy" this year. Unfortunately the time had come for me to move on and continue my travels up the coast of South Africa - a regular tortoise, with my home on my back. First stop a non descript town just south of Durban reknowned for its scuba diving and not much else....and then Durban, King of Curry in South Africa. What a joyous feast my taste buds had there.

Durban is a hot pot of tribes; Afrikanns, Indians and Zulus plus more besides. I popped into the "City" area of Durban to sort out some travel admin (mind numbing) and decided to travel back to the hostel via mini bus taxi. These are small mini buses primarily used by "locals" ie. the Zulus in Durban. Other South Africans warn you off with the usual scaremongering of getting robbed, abused etc., but I've found nothing but curiosity and shy friendliness when travelling this way. When I left the bus at my destination, the 'conductor" (usually a young kid who takes the fares for the driver, most proably related) thanked me for taking their bus. Bless. He charged me the same as the locals and it was obvious that I was an unusual occurance in their world.

A quick visit to Swaziland was next on the list which is rather small and frightfully clean and tidy with friendly people - apparently so because they've never been ruled by outsiders...! Sadly my time there was limited so beautiful scenery was noted, plus a mental note to go back there at some point. Off from there to Nelspruit, east of Johannesburg. A small tidy Afrikaans town which appeared to be lacking in personality but a gateway to the Kruger Park, hence my visit.

The Kruger National Park is a gorgeous, natural beauty and I felt humbled to see the animals living in their natural habitat, yet saddened that they have to cope with tar roads, hundreds of tourist camps and all us humans ogling their every move. It must be like living in a rather large gold fish bowl!

So I continue with my tortoise world off to another country and another continent...
[Photo: View of Rondavel and Coffee Bay village / Credit: Bomvu Paradise Backpackers]

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