No surprises that it was a very moving and sombre day. I spent most of my time staying away from the official memorials as I wasn't here last year and didn't feel right intruding on other peoples' grief. A lot of the westerners that were here last year found the day very difficult - they are reminded of what happened everyday and some felt they really didn't need a special day a year on. People who have been here a while talk about "when the 7 Eleven/bar/restaurant/hotel/backpackers was there..." in their conversation and you have to stop yourself asking where it is or why it isn't there anymore. This island is generally a young persons' island and you can see families here trying to make their holiday as best they can but their ultimate reason for being here is to see where their relative died. It is hard to see them.
There is a huge patch of land that was devasted on two sides by rising tides and tidal wave which continues as a reminder for everyone. Some parts are being reconstructed, but apparently the locals are waiting for the government to finish whatever it is they're doing before they are legally allowed to start re-building in earnest. The government is due to make it's development recommendations next June - a full 18 months after the event; local people are obviously suffering economically and angry that they are being put off and off and off.
One girl I spoke to woke up in flood water in just her knickers and bra - everything trashed, no time to salvage anything and so she ran out to escape and found herself giving away her bra to some other person who had had only just escaped as well but totally starkers. Another chap was so battered around by the tsunami he was airlifted from the island by emergency helicopter - he has some scars that are a permanent reminder to him. These are just two of the more docile stories I've heard, the others I might just keep to myself or ask permission before I can put them up here.
Needless to say the memorial garden is very moving and the "before" and "after" photos shocking in their total destruction of some parts of the island. So what more is there to be said. I hope people are able to grieve and let go on this anniversary; symbolised through the lighting of white lanterns that float up into the night; the sky was full of them. Sad but beautiful.
30 December 2005
Quintessentially Asian so far...
Small people, small clothes, clothes all one size, shoes for small people, squat toilets (good for leg muscles, bad for having a read on the loo!) along with no loo roll and hoses instead - does eveyone wander around with clean but wet botties??, covering up in respect of local culture, Chinatowns and Little Indias in abundance, hawker stalls selling everything from cooked food to fruit to clothes all for less than a pound usually, narrow streets bursting at the seams with tiny little stalls or shops, motorscooters, motorbikes, bikes, trishaws, the occasional car, no pavements, sometimes defined roads, lots of bowing in respect, complicated languages even to learn to say "hello" and "thank you", ineffiency, not quite "fiji time" but close, technological goodies next to slums, buckets of alcohol (and they really are slightly miniture versions of buckets...hmm classy!?), dodgy local brews full of impurities.... and there is of course more, I just can't think of them right now!
28 December 2005
Not Mountain Goat
There appear to be two main activities on Koh Phi Phi (apart from eating and drinking!); that is scuba diving (learning in the new year) and mountain climbing. So I thought 'd try my hand at mountain climbing on a humid but overcast day with a friend. Turns out that she is more the mountain goat than I as she hotfooted up the mountain like a pro while I quite literally hung around shouting in vain for somebody to please bloody hell bring me a crane!
We got to the base of the rock (quite an achievement in itself) and got taught a rather fancy knot in which to use to attach ourselves securely to the rope. Then on went the rather sexy (!?) belt and leg hoops up round the thighs and then last but not least some rather uncomfortable climbing shoes. Our thai instructors scrambled up secuing the rope - small and lithe they made it look easy although a little daunting as they got smaller and smaller the higher they went!
My first attempt saw me all of about 5 metres up the rock before swinging happily down (rather liked the down bit!). The idea apparently is to use the strength of your legs more so than your arms to get you up, but the angles that you find yourself in require some serious coordination and contortion especially when trying trying to get past some damn piece of overhanging rock. Our second climb was moved to an "easier" patch of rock. So they claim!! I did indeed manage about 15 metres this time but I think more out of blind stubborness than any particular skill! I had thought that it might have been easier to re-try the first rock as it was more familiar, but that was not to be.
As I was sat down watching the others skip up there (not really but it looked like it to me!) I was absolutely shattered. My arms were still shaking from the strain and my legs felt like jelly... I knew the next day or so would involve plenty of aching muscles - not wrong there - cannot dance at the mo for fear of legs buckling underneath!! Okay so maybe not quite that bad but pretty close. I'm glad I gave it a try and I now kow that I am definitively not a mountain goat, or as fit as I used to be. Need to get into training before I try that again!
We got to the base of the rock (quite an achievement in itself) and got taught a rather fancy knot in which to use to attach ourselves securely to the rope. Then on went the rather sexy (!?) belt and leg hoops up round the thighs and then last but not least some rather uncomfortable climbing shoes. Our thai instructors scrambled up secuing the rope - small and lithe they made it look easy although a little daunting as they got smaller and smaller the higher they went!
My first attempt saw me all of about 5 metres up the rock before swinging happily down (rather liked the down bit!). The idea apparently is to use the strength of your legs more so than your arms to get you up, but the angles that you find yourself in require some serious coordination and contortion especially when trying trying to get past some damn piece of overhanging rock. Our second climb was moved to an "easier" patch of rock. So they claim!! I did indeed manage about 15 metres this time but I think more out of blind stubborness than any particular skill! I had thought that it might have been easier to re-try the first rock as it was more familiar, but that was not to be.
As I was sat down watching the others skip up there (not really but it looked like it to me!) I was absolutely shattered. My arms were still shaking from the strain and my legs felt like jelly... I knew the next day or so would involve plenty of aching muscles - not wrong there - cannot dance at the mo for fear of legs buckling underneath!! Okay so maybe not quite that bad but pretty close. I'm glad I gave it a try and I now kow that I am definitively not a mountain goat, or as fit as I used to be. Need to get into training before I try that again!
22 December 2005
Ta daaa..!
So I finally made it to my Thai island , to my travel buddy extraordinnaire and in time for Christmas and the new year - hurrah!
All airports the world over look the same as do distinctly average hotels near airports; although I'm not complaining too much really cos I'm here and cos in comparison to the backpacker life it was a touch of quality if not class that broke up my journey nicely. Having also spoken to those hardy souls that tried to travel overland from southern Thailand into northern Malaysia it truely sounded like the journey from hell and involved a boat (which my rather large backpack would no doubt sink in a flash!) and so my decision to fly here in time for festive drinkies and the like is justified - another hurrah!
Koh Phi Phi was badly affected by the tsunami last Boxing Day as I'm sure the world knows. There are still areas of debris and construction going on all over the island but the main little streets have been re-built and sorted out nicely. What I hadn't realised is that the island is shaped such that the main stretch is on a horizontal narrow stretch of land and last year they had a rolling high tide that just kept on coming on the one side and an enormous wave hitting them on the other; the result? Bloody mess and chaos. Having spoken with people that were there, most ended up in the only bar on the island with three floors (obviously out of reach of waves and flood water) and drank in disbelief having previously woken up in water - the lucky ones that is. So the anniversary should prove to be a moving day for everyone - including a minutes silence, Muslim, Buddist and Christian ceremonies and an evening candle walk.
The weather here has also been causing problems over the last few days - the full moon party at Koh Pang-nan (spelling??!) had to be moved from the beach due to vicious storm weather and very high tides resulting in the death of four people - it was ultimately cancelled.
So not all cheery, but the atmosphere of this place is vibrant yet relaxed and although very touristy (which is nice to see after the exodus of tourists following the tsunami) I feel quite comfortable here... bring on the sunshine!
All airports the world over look the same as do distinctly average hotels near airports; although I'm not complaining too much really cos I'm here and cos in comparison to the backpacker life it was a touch of quality if not class that broke up my journey nicely. Having also spoken to those hardy souls that tried to travel overland from southern Thailand into northern Malaysia it truely sounded like the journey from hell and involved a boat (which my rather large backpack would no doubt sink in a flash!) and so my decision to fly here in time for festive drinkies and the like is justified - another hurrah!
Koh Phi Phi was badly affected by the tsunami last Boxing Day as I'm sure the world knows. There are still areas of debris and construction going on all over the island but the main little streets have been re-built and sorted out nicely. What I hadn't realised is that the island is shaped such that the main stretch is on a horizontal narrow stretch of land and last year they had a rolling high tide that just kept on coming on the one side and an enormous wave hitting them on the other; the result? Bloody mess and chaos. Having spoken with people that were there, most ended up in the only bar on the island with three floors (obviously out of reach of waves and flood water) and drank in disbelief having previously woken up in water - the lucky ones that is. So the anniversary should prove to be a moving day for everyone - including a minutes silence, Muslim, Buddist and Christian ceremonies and an evening candle walk.
The weather here has also been causing problems over the last few days - the full moon party at Koh Pang-nan (spelling??!) had to be moved from the beach due to vicious storm weather and very high tides resulting in the death of four people - it was ultimately cancelled.
So not all cheery, but the atmosphere of this place is vibrant yet relaxed and although very touristy (which is nice to see after the exodus of tourists following the tsunami) I feel quite comfortable here... bring on the sunshine!
20 December 2005
Stranded...sort of!
I think that it is possibly the first time in my travelling life that I have been delayed when I have 1. a deadline and 2. cannot do much about the cause of the delay! So I guess really that I should consider myself lucky that after two years of turtling round the world this is the first time.
It's coming up to Christmas, my travel buddy extraordinnaire is on a Thai island and I am in north Malaysia. Terrorism in southern Thailand and flooding in both southern Thailand and northern Malaysia up to 1.5m deep have conspired to prevent me travelling as planned by bus over the border to said Thai island. So now after much hoo-ing, haa-ing and hmm-ing with fellow stranded travellers, I have booked my sorry arse on a budget asian flight; no I lie, make that two budget asian flights. Backwards the way I came to Kuala Lumpur and then forwards again to Phuket... and then of course the ferry ride that I also need to take from Phuket. Oh hooray.
So it's still touch and go, but I hope to be where I want to be for Christmas and New Year instead of where I don't want to be muttering "b'ah humbug" to anyone that will listen!
Oh and by the way, Merry Christmas to those lucky souls who will be where they want to be!
It's coming up to Christmas, my travel buddy extraordinnaire is on a Thai island and I am in north Malaysia. Terrorism in southern Thailand and flooding in both southern Thailand and northern Malaysia up to 1.5m deep have conspired to prevent me travelling as planned by bus over the border to said Thai island. So now after much hoo-ing, haa-ing and hmm-ing with fellow stranded travellers, I have booked my sorry arse on a budget asian flight; no I lie, make that two budget asian flights. Backwards the way I came to Kuala Lumpur and then forwards again to Phuket... and then of course the ferry ride that I also need to take from Phuket. Oh hooray.
So it's still touch and go, but I hope to be where I want to be for Christmas and New Year instead of where I don't want to be muttering "b'ah humbug" to anyone that will listen!
Oh and by the way, Merry Christmas to those lucky souls who will be where they want to be!
13 December 2005
Asia Fizzle
So what to say about Malaysia? My arrival for the first time in Asia feels far more like a fizzle than a nice healthy pop! Not really seen all that much due to time constraints which is a very unusual feeling for me, but overall I'm glad that I don't have to spend too much time here. Kuala Lumpur locals are mainly unfriendly to the point of being rude and Penang is only marginally better.
It has a small element of the craziness assoicated with Asia; Chinatown and Little India areas abound in all major towns, but sadly I haven't had the chance to see inland - perhaps if I do on the way back, I may appreciate it a little more. The religious architecture is stunning - not usually high on my list for a country, but the extravagence of some of the temples is amazing and usually worth a couple of photos.
Spent over a week in Kuala Lumpur getting my head around a new country - always takes a while especially since my travel buddy extraordinnaire is in Thailand so it's just me, me and me. Got to know the Welsh/French owners of the bar downstairs from the hostel who were lovely and made me feel very welcome so that helped. Popped up the KL telecommunications Tower as well for a quick peek of the city from above - just another city really but with big hills in the background which was the one saving grace of the view. After a few failed attempts I managed to land myself on a bus to the island of Penang - really just an extension of the mainland especially now it has a bridge connected to it.
The hawker stalls both here and in Kuala Lumpur are fascinating for the frantic activities of the cooks and the most amazing smells reach my nose everytime I walk down the street. Most of the food (Indian, Malay, Chinese) is cooked fresh on the roadside and usually pretty bloody tasty as well as being super cheap - always a bonus!
So the Asia fizzle so far has been a massive assault on the senses in terms of the smells from cooking and the sounds of the traffic... although apparently nothing compared to what I am due to face elsewhere in Asia. I just hope for more friendly locals and really really have the need to be away from towns and near the ocean instead - I think I'm now cut out for the less frenetic pace of life and more for the relaxing wash of the sea... maybe I should have stayed in Fiji!!
It has a small element of the craziness assoicated with Asia; Chinatown and Little India areas abound in all major towns, but sadly I haven't had the chance to see inland - perhaps if I do on the way back, I may appreciate it a little more. The religious architecture is stunning - not usually high on my list for a country, but the extravagence of some of the temples is amazing and usually worth a couple of photos.
Spent over a week in Kuala Lumpur getting my head around a new country - always takes a while especially since my travel buddy extraordinnaire is in Thailand so it's just me, me and me. Got to know the Welsh/French owners of the bar downstairs from the hostel who were lovely and made me feel very welcome so that helped. Popped up the KL telecommunications Tower as well for a quick peek of the city from above - just another city really but with big hills in the background which was the one saving grace of the view. After a few failed attempts I managed to land myself on a bus to the island of Penang - really just an extension of the mainland especially now it has a bridge connected to it.
The hawker stalls both here and in Kuala Lumpur are fascinating for the frantic activities of the cooks and the most amazing smells reach my nose everytime I walk down the street. Most of the food (Indian, Malay, Chinese) is cooked fresh on the roadside and usually pretty bloody tasty as well as being super cheap - always a bonus!
So the Asia fizzle so far has been a massive assault on the senses in terms of the smells from cooking and the sounds of the traffic... although apparently nothing compared to what I am due to face elsewhere in Asia. I just hope for more friendly locals and really really have the need to be away from towns and near the ocean instead - I think I'm now cut out for the less frenetic pace of life and more for the relaxing wash of the sea... maybe I should have stayed in Fiji!!
05 December 2005
Suva Groover
I moved to the east coast of Viti Levu in Fiji to the capital city of Suva. Really rather a small city but as the country has less than a million people over 333 islands it's hardly surprising. So I donated my time to the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies as a Marketing Advisor and learnt buckets about the humanitarian and development world.
The office was a lovely wood floor affair with 5 local staff and about 6 international staff from Finnish to Kiwi. I stayed at a "hotel" as backpacker lodges are not really the done thing since no one really heads to Suva and it rains all the bloody time anyway. But it was definitely a budget budget hotel - no aircon, fans automatically off during the day, no laundry facilities apart from a sink and a tv lounge of joy where you couldn't eat, drink, smoke or be in any way merry inside it!
The first few days were definitely a bit on the lonesome side, but one of my colleagues took me under her wing and I got to housesit for her as well as get out and about a bit for openings, dance performances and the like which was nice to meet people and actually DO something!! After that, Latin Fitness classes were the order of the day, right up my street and met several other volunteer types there and out of the Suva rain came a social life and some Suva grooving. Traps and O'Reillys bar/clubs were the place to be and relatively safe even though I still stood out a bit like a sore thumb! But it was all very civilised - usually dinner and a few drinks first with a group of friends and for those that fancied it onwards for some dancing and more drinks. All things considered the hassle wasn't too bad and most nights of Suva groovin' were pretty good fun.
The office was a lovely wood floor affair with 5 local staff and about 6 international staff from Finnish to Kiwi. I stayed at a "hotel" as backpacker lodges are not really the done thing since no one really heads to Suva and it rains all the bloody time anyway. But it was definitely a budget budget hotel - no aircon, fans automatically off during the day, no laundry facilities apart from a sink and a tv lounge of joy where you couldn't eat, drink, smoke or be in any way merry inside it!
The first few days were definitely a bit on the lonesome side, but one of my colleagues took me under her wing and I got to housesit for her as well as get out and about a bit for openings, dance performances and the like which was nice to meet people and actually DO something!! After that, Latin Fitness classes were the order of the day, right up my street and met several other volunteer types there and out of the Suva rain came a social life and some Suva grooving. Traps and O'Reillys bar/clubs were the place to be and relatively safe even though I still stood out a bit like a sore thumb! But it was all very civilised - usually dinner and a few drinks first with a group of friends and for those that fancied it onwards for some dancing and more drinks. All things considered the hassle wasn't too bad and most nights of Suva groovin' were pretty good fun.
05 October 2005
Feejee Experience
Feejee: kava, white sand, coral reef, bure, island hopping, boats large and small, puppies, people, families... all so much a part of Fiji. When we first arrived we managed some island hopping on the west coast, off the main island of Viti Levu in the Yasawa Islands group. It was such a beautiful boat ride out there with islands looming near or majestic with mountains (okay hills) in the distance; so typical of how you imagine it - white rings of sand with lush green forest in the middle surrounded by coral reef and lagoon blue waters - some stoopid small, some larger but all screaming out "paradise island"!
The first island of Waya was a little hilly number with a connection to a nearby island at low tide when the sea would part from two directions leaving a glistening white sand bar. A quick snorkel out confirmed some lovely coral and sealife, and although it was a little choppy the visibility was still good. It was a very quiet place with little double "bure" rooms (bure being rather like a natural wood hut - a feature of traditional Fiji and in still in use in remote village communities) located on the sand. We only spent one night there, but it was quite lovely with dinner and a bonfire on the beach.
Onto the boat again to our destination for two nights to the island of Naviti; a bigger island but sadly with some ruined coral reef - a combination of low tides, sun exposure, people walking on it and boats knocking against it. but we managed a small boat trip out to a channel of water frequented by gorgeous enormous manta rays that we snorkelled above - apparently not as good as when you dive with them, but nevertheless an amazing, very tranquil sight. The nightlife wasn't too bad, in that we had local performances and fire dancers which was amazing to watch, but the dinner (no choice apart from meat or no meat) was reminiscent of a boarding school and some of the entertainment was enforced en masse which struck me as slighly dodgy Butlins style - so we ran off and hid on the beach - lazing on the hammocks between palm trees gazing at the stars - an altogether more enjoyable experience!
It was a short trip out to the islands but lovely and then we got back to the main island of Viti Levu and went about sorting out some super super cheap accommodation. In the next couple of months, my partner found work as a scuba diving instructor and all went well - he was teaching some Dive Master students - 2 Swiss Germans and1 English so we mooched around together and managed some intersting nights of kava, alcohol and vindi vindi.
Kava is the ground down root of a plant and is a very traditional part of Fijian life - also known as "grog". It is mixed in a muslin bag with water, pressing down on it with the hands into a large kava bowl - it turns out to look remarkably and worringly similar to muddy puddle water and the taste isn't much better! You drink it (all in one) from carved out coconut shells until the main bowl is empty. However, it does have medicinal properties for kidneys, sleep enhancement and helps to numb the throat and mouth. It also apparently has mildly narcotic properties - of which I didn't manage to experience namely because you need to drink many, many bowls of a relatively strong mix - not something that is easy to stomach!
Vindi Vindi is translates as "flick flick" - played around a wooden table, sat cross legged (old and young alike) for 2 or 4 players with four holes in each corner and bascially a finger version of pool - strangely addictive game mind you!
In those two months, some other great travellers came to visit our happy cheap place and we arranged another trip to another island on the cheap for a bit of island-style relaxing, drinking and dancing - a whole new technique required to large it up barefoot on sand!
[Photo: Nadi Bay sunset]
10 August 2005
all the little things...
There is so much missing from my blog - all the little things or the not so great things that I am disinclined to include but that in retrospect make the travels since how can you appreciate the highs without experiencing the lows?
Not that all the little things are lows mind you. It's a slow process but little things that spring to mind include being ill in South Africa with a stomach bug for 2 weeks unable to stand up straight due to pole-axing pain resulting eventually in lots of drugs (not the exciting ones) and lots of weightloss (very exciting), an infected mosquito bite, again in South Africa, involving even more drugs when really the ultimate cure was to leave the sub tropical area I was in and find a nice clean urban area, going to Mozambique (completely non existent in this travel blog) and taking malarial pills that made me slightly loopy in the head, being a grump in Swaziland despite a beautiful hostel, country and welcoming staff, again due to malarial pills, not showering for 5 days in Australia while camping out in the bush, Cyclone Ingrid preparations while living in Far North Queensland wondering whether we would survive, seeing parts of London devastated on the news while many, many miles from home, running away from big waves in any country due to irrational fear of a dunking, but snorkelling with no problems at all, being a friend to every dog in town in every bloody country and getting way too emotionally attached, the sound of rain on a corrugated iron roof, seeing yet another beautiful beach the fails to enthrall me as much as it should, the understanding that human nature can be overtly cruel and degrading and yet at the same time experiencing the overwhelming kindness of strangers.
I'm sure there is more to come, but for the time being this is it along with the realisation that the world can be a scary yet beautiful place.
Not that all the little things are lows mind you. It's a slow process but little things that spring to mind include being ill in South Africa with a stomach bug for 2 weeks unable to stand up straight due to pole-axing pain resulting eventually in lots of drugs (not the exciting ones) and lots of weightloss (very exciting), an infected mosquito bite, again in South Africa, involving even more drugs when really the ultimate cure was to leave the sub tropical area I was in and find a nice clean urban area, going to Mozambique (completely non existent in this travel blog) and taking malarial pills that made me slightly loopy in the head, being a grump in Swaziland despite a beautiful hostel, country and welcoming staff, again due to malarial pills, not showering for 5 days in Australia while camping out in the bush, Cyclone Ingrid preparations while living in Far North Queensland wondering whether we would survive, seeing parts of London devastated on the news while many, many miles from home, running away from big waves in any country due to irrational fear of a dunking, but snorkelling with no problems at all, being a friend to every dog in town in every bloody country and getting way too emotionally attached, the sound of rain on a corrugated iron roof, seeing yet another beautiful beach the fails to enthrall me as much as it should, the understanding that human nature can be overtly cruel and degrading and yet at the same time experiencing the overwhelming kindness of strangers.
I'm sure there is more to come, but for the time being this is it along with the realisation that the world can be a scary yet beautiful place.
20 July 2005
07 July 2005
Mister Fin
[Photo: Mister Fin enjoying some home comforts in his short life] Poor little puppy found in a bin,
Some old bugger is as guilty as sin,
We tried to give him food and care,
And all the warmth we could share,
But sadly it was too little too late,
And off he went to his heaven date.
1st June - 6th July 2005
R.I.P Mister Fin
29 May 2005
The Final Aussie Chapter
So Byron Bay was overated. But it was also good with free lessons in fire twirling, didgeredoo playing and bush tucker, gorgeous rolling waves in the bay and lovely open hostel grounds which made a welcome change from the high rises of Surfers Paradise.
We spent a night out in the woods at a free rave, which is like a hippie subculture all of its own with people letting themselves go totally to the music. It took us so long to get there and actually find it I wasn't really in the mood for it by the time we finally arrived, but it was interesting to be there as it's something I hadn't seen since home. At points I found myself looking at these people and wondered where the pleasure was in dancing in the cold on a random area of land and at other times the music caught up with me and I understood why. As I fluctuated between these feelings I more often than not wondered why I wasn't tucked up in a nice warm bed!
From Byron we travelled south to Port Macquarie and saw all of the inside of the hostel for one night, which I actually rather liked as it was quiet and small, rather than the 200 odd people at the hostel in Byron Bay. So onto Sydney - we were so impressed that we had finally made it and so had our car which was liable to breakdown at a moments notice! I'd forgotten the hectic driving and sheer volume of people and cars in cities and it was back to aggressive London driving in order to get anywhere. So our last few days in the Aussie adventure were spent in Manly with the bonus of having to get a ferry to the city which meant seeing some great views of the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. We've also discovered that all decent lounge bars are in Sydney and no where else...! We also discovered that they're frightfully expensive.
I think that Africa is where my heart still lies as a place for travelling, but I've learnt a lot while travelling Australia; the various roadtrips and the families visiting are easily the highlights of our time here. So here I sign off from Australia and fly out to new and distant shores wondering as ever what the next stop will hold.
We spent a night out in the woods at a free rave, which is like a hippie subculture all of its own with people letting themselves go totally to the music. It took us so long to get there and actually find it I wasn't really in the mood for it by the time we finally arrived, but it was interesting to be there as it's something I hadn't seen since home. At points I found myself looking at these people and wondered where the pleasure was in dancing in the cold on a random area of land and at other times the music caught up with me and I understood why. As I fluctuated between these feelings I more often than not wondered why I wasn't tucked up in a nice warm bed!
From Byron we travelled south to Port Macquarie and saw all of the inside of the hostel for one night, which I actually rather liked as it was quiet and small, rather than the 200 odd people at the hostel in Byron Bay. So onto Sydney - we were so impressed that we had finally made it and so had our car which was liable to breakdown at a moments notice! I'd forgotten the hectic driving and sheer volume of people and cars in cities and it was back to aggressive London driving in order to get anywhere. So our last few days in the Aussie adventure were spent in Manly with the bonus of having to get a ferry to the city which meant seeing some great views of the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. We've also discovered that all decent lounge bars are in Sydney and no where else...! We also discovered that they're frightfully expensive.
I think that Africa is where my heart still lies as a place for travelling, but I've learnt a lot while travelling Australia; the various roadtrips and the families visiting are easily the highlights of our time here. So here I sign off from Australia and fly out to new and distant shores wondering as ever what the next stop will hold.
18 May 2005
Roadtrippin' the Well Beaten Tourist Track
So we made it to Surfer's Paradise - ironic really since it's not even close to being one of the best surfing areas in Australia, but there you go. The area started developing in the 1960s when some dude started meter maids in gold lame bikinis - apparently they still exist, but I have yet to have the pleasure of meeting one.
There is a gorgeous long beach with hundreds of sky rise hotels/apartments towering over it - it you like large phallic buildings all trying to out-do each other and people everywhere then this is your place. Sadly it's not mine, but it is kinda fascinating in it's own unique way. The hostel is full of backpackers which makes for a hectic but generally friendly place, but much of the entertainment revolves around a night on the lash - fine a couple of times but really rather repetitive otherwise.
So now we know that much of our route down to Sydney is going to be along the well beaten track of a million other tourists - not much of a challenge, unless you count trying to get a decent night's sleep in a dorm but ho hum. We continue next to the hippie mecca that is Byron Bay - most people we've chatted to either love it or hate it, so I guess we'll find out soon enough.
There is a gorgeous long beach with hundreds of sky rise hotels/apartments towering over it - it you like large phallic buildings all trying to out-do each other and people everywhere then this is your place. Sadly it's not mine, but it is kinda fascinating in it's own unique way. The hostel is full of backpackers which makes for a hectic but generally friendly place, but much of the entertainment revolves around a night on the lash - fine a couple of times but really rather repetitive otherwise.
So now we know that much of our route down to Sydney is going to be along the well beaten track of a million other tourists - not much of a challenge, unless you count trying to get a decent night's sleep in a dorm but ho hum. We continue next to the hippie mecca that is Byron Bay - most people we've chatted to either love it or hate it, so I guess we'll find out soon enough.
10 May 2005
Calamity Roadtrip
At the start of our journey we blew a tyre, a fuel line and had to blow into a breath test as we were travelling on a bank holiday weekend where the police presence is all around! So the roadtrip started off on a rather challenging, if slightly mechanical note.
First stop, Mission Beach for a rather unforgettable night and an insomniac dorm buddy which drove me completely nutty resulting in about three hours sleep and a rather grumpy morning (surprisingly enough). Off in the morning to Ayr which seems to have all of nought going for it apart from being a good base for fruit picking workers. The hostel was in a state of disarray as they were in the middle of doing a complete refurbishment on the place, but it meant a private room for only $10 - total bargain! The only other benefit of Ayr was so that the lads (we have acquired a Dutch travel buddy to add to the two of us and the teddy) could scuba dive the Yongalla Wreck which has been there so long it's a whole reef eco system all in its own right - apparently lovely, but I didn't partake.
Eungella National Park was our next stop up a crazy road into the mountains with breath taking views of the valley below. Sadly the car didn't think it was all that great and we reckon we've lost a cyclinder in the engine due to the strain going up hill - ho hum. The chalet we stayed in was full of local folk or oldies on holiday and had the feel of a Bristish B&B circa 1950. Nevertheless the views from the lawn were absolutely outstanding with mountains to the left and right and a patchwork valley strewn below. Our second night was spent with the locals in the newly advertised Pub Trivia Night - our team name "Norfolk 'n Chance" - say it really quickly in a northern English accent and you get the drift! Even so, we didn't come last despite the Australian emphasis on a lot of the questions so we were happy with that - we even managed to win a prize for something-or-other. It was an amusing look at Australian life out of town if nothing else.
After making it back down the mountains in one piece we headed to Yeppoon to discover the backpackers there to be a building site so off we trotted a little further down the coast to a tiny town called Emu Park - although no emus to be seen. The backpackers was also tiny - it slept 13 poeple when full in an old timber house very typical of architecture in Queensland. The manager there was short on words but big on being helpful and sorted out our trip to Great Keppel Island; a half hour ferry ride away and close to the southern part of the Great Barrier Reef. We stayed in a holiday village (words that I shudder to hear) but it actually turned out to be rather lovely. Just seconds from the beach with sand underfoot, a tropical garden, hammocks and generator power turned off at 11pm we stayed a few nights just chilling out and chatting shite as it should be. One of the days on the island was spent snorkelling just off the shore line which was home to a surprisingly large amount of hard and soft coral. It was the first time we'd been able to go in the water without stinger suits to stop the jelly nasties killing us off so that in itself was exciting, plus we saw all manner of marine life including a harmless shark that likes living on the sea bed (can't remember it's name but may have begun with a w!) and a sting ray. The benefit of going snorkelling with well qualified scuba divers is that they tend to know the names of obscure marine life - sadly most of the names didn't really sink in as I was too busy asking if they were really sure the shark was harmless.
Our next stop involved more fuel line fixing on the way (much joy), but we finally made it to Agnes Waters / Town of 1770 (so named as some dude (Captain Cook probably) arrived on the shoreline that year). The hostel seemed pretty new and was really nicely set out with a huge, comfy lounge, a fire pit outside, hammocks and a large kitchen with everything in it apart from a tin opener that worked. The atmosphere was pretty chilled with much didgeredoo and guitar playing and more chatting of shite and we also had the privilege (for probably the last time) of a dorm with nice people in it that also respected other peoples right to a decent night's sleep! There wasn't all that much to do on our measily budget but we managed a free tour of the local area in 4WD trucks - we were late (courtesy, as ever, of me) and the trucks were full so we were jammy enough to get our own 4WD to drive ourselves, which as you can imagine was mayhem but good fun!
Next the dubious pleasures of Surfer's Paradise...
First stop, Mission Beach for a rather unforgettable night and an insomniac dorm buddy which drove me completely nutty resulting in about three hours sleep and a rather grumpy morning (surprisingly enough). Off in the morning to Ayr which seems to have all of nought going for it apart from being a good base for fruit picking workers. The hostel was in a state of disarray as they were in the middle of doing a complete refurbishment on the place, but it meant a private room for only $10 - total bargain! The only other benefit of Ayr was so that the lads (we have acquired a Dutch travel buddy to add to the two of us and the teddy) could scuba dive the Yongalla Wreck which has been there so long it's a whole reef eco system all in its own right - apparently lovely, but I didn't partake.
Eungella National Park was our next stop up a crazy road into the mountains with breath taking views of the valley below. Sadly the car didn't think it was all that great and we reckon we've lost a cyclinder in the engine due to the strain going up hill - ho hum. The chalet we stayed in was full of local folk or oldies on holiday and had the feel of a Bristish B&B circa 1950. Nevertheless the views from the lawn were absolutely outstanding with mountains to the left and right and a patchwork valley strewn below. Our second night was spent with the locals in the newly advertised Pub Trivia Night - our team name "Norfolk 'n Chance" - say it really quickly in a northern English accent and you get the drift! Even so, we didn't come last despite the Australian emphasis on a lot of the questions so we were happy with that - we even managed to win a prize for something-or-other. It was an amusing look at Australian life out of town if nothing else.
After making it back down the mountains in one piece we headed to Yeppoon to discover the backpackers there to be a building site so off we trotted a little further down the coast to a tiny town called Emu Park - although no emus to be seen. The backpackers was also tiny - it slept 13 poeple when full in an old timber house very typical of architecture in Queensland. The manager there was short on words but big on being helpful and sorted out our trip to Great Keppel Island; a half hour ferry ride away and close to the southern part of the Great Barrier Reef. We stayed in a holiday village (words that I shudder to hear) but it actually turned out to be rather lovely. Just seconds from the beach with sand underfoot, a tropical garden, hammocks and generator power turned off at 11pm we stayed a few nights just chilling out and chatting shite as it should be. One of the days on the island was spent snorkelling just off the shore line which was home to a surprisingly large amount of hard and soft coral. It was the first time we'd been able to go in the water without stinger suits to stop the jelly nasties killing us off so that in itself was exciting, plus we saw all manner of marine life including a harmless shark that likes living on the sea bed (can't remember it's name but may have begun with a w!) and a sting ray. The benefit of going snorkelling with well qualified scuba divers is that they tend to know the names of obscure marine life - sadly most of the names didn't really sink in as I was too busy asking if they were really sure the shark was harmless.
Our next stop involved more fuel line fixing on the way (much joy), but we finally made it to Agnes Waters / Town of 1770 (so named as some dude (Captain Cook probably) arrived on the shoreline that year). The hostel seemed pretty new and was really nicely set out with a huge, comfy lounge, a fire pit outside, hammocks and a large kitchen with everything in it apart from a tin opener that worked. The atmosphere was pretty chilled with much didgeredoo and guitar playing and more chatting of shite and we also had the privilege (for probably the last time) of a dorm with nice people in it that also respected other peoples right to a decent night's sleep! There wasn't all that much to do on our measily budget but we managed a free tour of the local area in 4WD trucks - we were late (courtesy, as ever, of me) and the trucks were full so we were jammy enough to get our own 4WD to drive ourselves, which as you can imagine was mayhem but good fun!
Next the dubious pleasures of Surfer's Paradise...
13 April 2005
The High Life
Over the last few months, we've had the good fortune of relatives popping half way round the world to visit us, so within the space of two months we were utterly spoilt by two sets of family - such bliss! Air conditioned apartments, a real bed and pillows, proper towels, classy meals out, day excursions to the Great Barrier Reef, the Whitsundays, wildlife parks and more, not having to budget, drinks on tap and more to the point; the company of our families for the first time in well over a year. Amusingly enough, what we thought of as luxury, was just standard by our family's view and I guess that being on the road for this long has made our budgeting lifestyle the norm rather than the lifestyle we were accustomed to back home. I shan't go into details but I had an amazing time and loved the novelty of being a proper tourist in rather plush surroundings if only for a few weeks; it felt like a well deserved holiday from our hard travelling if that's possible!
25 January 2005
Oh the roads (hills?) are alive...
I've spent a grand total of four weeks living in a tin box on wheels, also known as a campervan, going from West to East Coast via a brief sojourn to Uluru. And now that I've stopped I seem to remember everything in a rather undefined blur... I remember thinking to myself on several legs of the journey that I should really record this or that moment for the future, so that when I look back in the dusty recesses of my memory it will once again come alive for me. Alas, it is not to be, but still I try...
Some bits are easy - Western Australia has the best free camp spots so far. They are the "alternative" spots in the wilderness which doesn't cost you a cent to stay. They are defined by being away from the main road, usually next to a river or running creek (rather than a dry one, of which there are many in the Northern Territory and Queensland) and have sweet f.a by way of facilities. We found a lovely spot on our first night on a local farmer's land that he allowed for free campers (which we thought was frightfully nice and civilised of the chap!) - a lake surrounded by trees and as ever, tons of wildlife in the way of cows and birds. It was too good to be true. Over in the distance a gentle red glow had turned the whole night black and red and was suddenly staring us menacingly in the face along with the none too gentle whiff of smoke... a bush fire headed in our direction.
Bugger that, we thought and hotfooted it a short distance to the farm homestead to ask for local advice; were we safe where we were thinking of staying, would we be able to get past it in a vehicle if we tried to push onwards (nevermind the kangaroos that come out like the plague at night just itching to jump out in front of you), should we turn back or what??? Sadly no owners seemed present, just an all male group of workers who thought we might be safe, but "it's a bit hard to tell at the moment" and "should be alright mate". Bugger that, we thought again, and decided to risk the roo rat run and push onwards in the hope that a fire wouldn't be raging in the middle of the road. We were rather pleased that one wasn't. The glow of the fire and the pall of the smoke slowly receeded in our rear view mirror over a period of an hour. We shall never know, but a guess we probably weren't in any mortal danger from the bush fire; they are frightfully hard to judge in terms of how near they are to you. Yet images were racing through our minds of all the horror news reports we'd seen on British television of uncontrollable bush fires that spread rack and ruin willy nilly with no thought for human life, land or wildlife in its' ever changing path. So we felt rather more safer, if a bit out of pocket, when we limped into a caravan park at the nearest town.
Anyway, I digress, back to the camp spots. Despite our hoo-ha with the bush fire, we continued seeking out isolated, gorgeous camp spots, stopping only at caravan parks for the obligatory once a week shower! Since we were both in the same situation, it didn't really matter and with the streams running at most of the camp spots we still got to cool down and wash down to a degree. The temperatures throughout W.A were a shocker. By 9.30am most mornings the van was unbearable regardless of whether we were parked in shade or not and the goal for every morning was to ignore stomach rumblings, pack up home as quickly as possible and get on the road with the air conditioning pumping full blast. It was that or loss of sanity!!
We made it over to the border into the Northern Territories within about a week and the change in landscape and weather was amazing and hugely welcome. As we arrived at Victoria River Roadhouse for a fuel top up, instead of the standard desert bush we were confronted with gorgeous, damp, rolling pasture and semi tropical trees and bushes. The day was overcast with a hint of rain past or future and a cool wind blowing - it was such a welcome change we were rendered speechless for once and just stood like loonies outside the roadside breathing in the fresh cool air and enjoying the view.
One of the highlights was splashing out on a helicopter ride over the Katherine Gorges (Nitmiluk National Park). It was frightfully daunting as I was in the front seat of the helicopter with just a seat belt between me and the great open sky, but exhilerating nonetheless. It was also the most convenient way of seeing the gorges which spread out for miles without having to take a hike - not my forte! We also had the dubious pleasure of a little audience of wallabies while eating our dinner that night.
From there we travelled down the middle of the NT, making a short detour to Daly Waters - a tiny town with a population of just 20 (!) people and a claim to fame of "the oldest pub in the Northern Territories". Apparently it was established in the 1930s which compared to Europe, really isn't that historic at all. Nevertheless it had a rather rustic used feel about it which added to the overall charm and served not only as a pub, but fuel station, caravan park, motel and restaurant. The pub area was decorated with all manner of weird things; many people leave behind (stuck to the walls) photo ID or business cards and on the more wilder nights appear to have left without their underwear, as all shapes and sizes of knickers, boxers and bras were strewn from the ceiling.
We had planned on cutting through the middle of the NT and heading though onto Queensland, but we were so near (and yet so far as we discovered) to Uluru (Ayres Rock) that we decided to make another detour (2 days of driving!) down to Uluru, since it seemed the thing to do as we were in Australia! The NT by this time were no longer the lush green of the top end, but more a red desert of neverending nothingness. By the time we reached Uluru we were grateful to see anything higher than a termite mound and anything more interesting than tarmc. It is true that Uluru does change colour as the angle and strength of the sun fades, but nothing quite so dramatic as all those rather nice postcards you see! It is also a massive tourist industry now, with a ring road running round the whole rock clogged with buses and buses of tourists. In the 60s you had to fly in to see it landing on a dirt track. Oh and it was free then. Still, we felt a sense of achievement that we had seen it and wouldn't have to wonder if we had been missing something for the rest of journey.
The next highlight, wich sadly did not involve any highs, was breaking down on the way back from Uluru... stopped by the side of the road in burning sunlight (42 degrees celsius and not a cloud in the sky) we managed to flag down an unsuspecting 4WD with a German couple behind the wheel. As we were driving a 2 ton campervan, we didn't really have much option for other vehicles that would be capable of towing us. They very kindly towed us to the nearest roadhouse, which like all places in the outback served as fuel station, restaurant, bar and a place to sleep. The staff there were rather lovely (the only Aboriginals we managed a good laugh and a chat with) and we spent the night there waiting for a spare part to arrive the next day.
All was well, once we had done our bit of DIY mechanics and bounded off down the road in high spirits, back on our roadtriip again. 60km down the road we broke down again. And this time we really were in the bush with not a sign of another vehicle for a long long time. It was then that we really appreciated why we were carrying 50 litres of water and plenty of food! Luckily some outback dude in a Ford 4WD older than me came past and offered us a tow to the nearest town with mechanic - a healthy 40km away! And bless him, we all struggled but we got there in the end. Hooray, hooray and several beers later we passed out! The following (rather painful!) day was spent in the cold and the rain playing cards (it was 25 degrees, but half the temperature of the previous day so we shivered - lots!) waiting for the mechanic to materialise; which he did. The day after.
Arriving over the border in Queensland was rather a shock from the relatively scenic parts of the NT we had been through. The road suddenly narrows to become a dodgy single lane of tarmac (or bitumen as they call it in these parts), yet great 50 metre long road trains still come trundling through leaving us with no option but to get the hell off the tarmac onto the dirt verge in our beat up diesel van when such montrosities were headed in our direction! Added to this was the unremarkable semi arid desert scenery and poker straight roads that made for a pretty dull drive.
We made attempts throughout the bush of QLD to stay, as was our cheap and cheerful habit, in free bush camps. Sadly the QLD government has recently decreed that no free camps are to made available within 50km of paid for accomodation such as caravan parks/motels etc. so that narrowed the choice a bit. They also seemed to have the bright idea of tarmac-ing every free area and placing them right next to the highways, which although not busy, still roar with the sound of cars or roadtrains as there are no barriers to contain the noise, just open shrubland. So in conclusion, we decided that WA had the best bush camps while QLD was sadly lacking. In any case, we passed through some fairly non descript towns and settlements, many basing their livelihood on mining making for fairly unattractive places. Once out of the bush and along the coast, the scenery naturally improved and we were closer to our final destination in Far North Queensland.
Cairns itself is a rather souless sort of place but apparently the most heavily populated by tourists. As a backpacker, it has an abundance of choice with many, many cheesey entertainment clubs for those incapable of entertaining themselves without some form of karaoke or wet tee shirt competition. I think I may be getting rather old as it really didn't appeal. The city itelf is based around a network of streets leading to the Esplanade which looks out over ugly mud flats - to increase the appeal, the local authority has built a public outdoor lagoon/swimming pool which I admit has increased its charm slightly but wasn't enough for me to stay. We headed further north and have since spent about four months in a small, relatively upmarket town which although not great, has more character than Cairns and is far more manageable for such a period of time.
The plan so far has been for money as travel plans need cold hard cash and therefore so did we. I have found myself in jobs that I really wish I didn't have to do and certainly weren't the reasons I came half way round the world, but since it's been for a relatively short period of time I bit the bullet, gritted my teeth, you name it and got on with it. My partner has been doing the same but simultaneously studying to be a scuba diver instructor and once that is complete we shall be on the road again hopefully with some firm plans for our next stop in the world.
In some respects, it's been an interesting experience. We've met plenty of travellers and got to know quite a number of locals. I am beginning to understand why many people come to settle in Australia. The lifestyle is very relaxed (since it's so bloody hot there's no other way to be), the locals working in services are generally excellent at dealing with people from all walks of life and for the most part seem friendly, the streets are clean and everything works. On the other hand, life here is remarkably similar to home - groups of people form together and go out drinking.... and that's it. So for me, I look forward to being back on the road with all its requisite challenges and each day bringing something new.
Some bits are easy - Western Australia has the best free camp spots so far. They are the "alternative" spots in the wilderness which doesn't cost you a cent to stay. They are defined by being away from the main road, usually next to a river or running creek (rather than a dry one, of which there are many in the Northern Territory and Queensland) and have sweet f.a by way of facilities. We found a lovely spot on our first night on a local farmer's land that he allowed for free campers (which we thought was frightfully nice and civilised of the chap!) - a lake surrounded by trees and as ever, tons of wildlife in the way of cows and birds. It was too good to be true. Over in the distance a gentle red glow had turned the whole night black and red and was suddenly staring us menacingly in the face along with the none too gentle whiff of smoke... a bush fire headed in our direction.
Bugger that, we thought and hotfooted it a short distance to the farm homestead to ask for local advice; were we safe where we were thinking of staying, would we be able to get past it in a vehicle if we tried to push onwards (nevermind the kangaroos that come out like the plague at night just itching to jump out in front of you), should we turn back or what??? Sadly no owners seemed present, just an all male group of workers who thought we might be safe, but "it's a bit hard to tell at the moment" and "should be alright mate". Bugger that, we thought again, and decided to risk the roo rat run and push onwards in the hope that a fire wouldn't be raging in the middle of the road. We were rather pleased that one wasn't. The glow of the fire and the pall of the smoke slowly receeded in our rear view mirror over a period of an hour. We shall never know, but a guess we probably weren't in any mortal danger from the bush fire; they are frightfully hard to judge in terms of how near they are to you. Yet images were racing through our minds of all the horror news reports we'd seen on British television of uncontrollable bush fires that spread rack and ruin willy nilly with no thought for human life, land or wildlife in its' ever changing path. So we felt rather more safer, if a bit out of pocket, when we limped into a caravan park at the nearest town.
Anyway, I digress, back to the camp spots. Despite our hoo-ha with the bush fire, we continued seeking out isolated, gorgeous camp spots, stopping only at caravan parks for the obligatory once a week shower! Since we were both in the same situation, it didn't really matter and with the streams running at most of the camp spots we still got to cool down and wash down to a degree. The temperatures throughout W.A were a shocker. By 9.30am most mornings the van was unbearable regardless of whether we were parked in shade or not and the goal for every morning was to ignore stomach rumblings, pack up home as quickly as possible and get on the road with the air conditioning pumping full blast. It was that or loss of sanity!!
We made it over to the border into the Northern Territories within about a week and the change in landscape and weather was amazing and hugely welcome. As we arrived at Victoria River Roadhouse for a fuel top up, instead of the standard desert bush we were confronted with gorgeous, damp, rolling pasture and semi tropical trees and bushes. The day was overcast with a hint of rain past or future and a cool wind blowing - it was such a welcome change we were rendered speechless for once and just stood like loonies outside the roadside breathing in the fresh cool air and enjoying the view.
One of the highlights was splashing out on a helicopter ride over the Katherine Gorges (Nitmiluk National Park). It was frightfully daunting as I was in the front seat of the helicopter with just a seat belt between me and the great open sky, but exhilerating nonetheless. It was also the most convenient way of seeing the gorges which spread out for miles without having to take a hike - not my forte! We also had the dubious pleasure of a little audience of wallabies while eating our dinner that night.
From there we travelled down the middle of the NT, making a short detour to Daly Waters - a tiny town with a population of just 20 (!) people and a claim to fame of "the oldest pub in the Northern Territories". Apparently it was established in the 1930s which compared to Europe, really isn't that historic at all. Nevertheless it had a rather rustic used feel about it which added to the overall charm and served not only as a pub, but fuel station, caravan park, motel and restaurant. The pub area was decorated with all manner of weird things; many people leave behind (stuck to the walls) photo ID or business cards and on the more wilder nights appear to have left without their underwear, as all shapes and sizes of knickers, boxers and bras were strewn from the ceiling.
We had planned on cutting through the middle of the NT and heading though onto Queensland, but we were so near (and yet so far as we discovered) to Uluru (Ayres Rock) that we decided to make another detour (2 days of driving!) down to Uluru, since it seemed the thing to do as we were in Australia! The NT by this time were no longer the lush green of the top end, but more a red desert of neverending nothingness. By the time we reached Uluru we were grateful to see anything higher than a termite mound and anything more interesting than tarmc. It is true that Uluru does change colour as the angle and strength of the sun fades, but nothing quite so dramatic as all those rather nice postcards you see! It is also a massive tourist industry now, with a ring road running round the whole rock clogged with buses and buses of tourists. In the 60s you had to fly in to see it landing on a dirt track. Oh and it was free then. Still, we felt a sense of achievement that we had seen it and wouldn't have to wonder if we had been missing something for the rest of journey.
The next highlight, wich sadly did not involve any highs, was breaking down on the way back from Uluru... stopped by the side of the road in burning sunlight (42 degrees celsius and not a cloud in the sky) we managed to flag down an unsuspecting 4WD with a German couple behind the wheel. As we were driving a 2 ton campervan, we didn't really have much option for other vehicles that would be capable of towing us. They very kindly towed us to the nearest roadhouse, which like all places in the outback served as fuel station, restaurant, bar and a place to sleep. The staff there were rather lovely (the only Aboriginals we managed a good laugh and a chat with) and we spent the night there waiting for a spare part to arrive the next day.
All was well, once we had done our bit of DIY mechanics and bounded off down the road in high spirits, back on our roadtriip again. 60km down the road we broke down again. And this time we really were in the bush with not a sign of another vehicle for a long long time. It was then that we really appreciated why we were carrying 50 litres of water and plenty of food! Luckily some outback dude in a Ford 4WD older than me came past and offered us a tow to the nearest town with mechanic - a healthy 40km away! And bless him, we all struggled but we got there in the end. Hooray, hooray and several beers later we passed out! The following (rather painful!) day was spent in the cold and the rain playing cards (it was 25 degrees, but half the temperature of the previous day so we shivered - lots!) waiting for the mechanic to materialise; which he did. The day after.
Arriving over the border in Queensland was rather a shock from the relatively scenic parts of the NT we had been through. The road suddenly narrows to become a dodgy single lane of tarmac (or bitumen as they call it in these parts), yet great 50 metre long road trains still come trundling through leaving us with no option but to get the hell off the tarmac onto the dirt verge in our beat up diesel van when such montrosities were headed in our direction! Added to this was the unremarkable semi arid desert scenery and poker straight roads that made for a pretty dull drive.
We made attempts throughout the bush of QLD to stay, as was our cheap and cheerful habit, in free bush camps. Sadly the QLD government has recently decreed that no free camps are to made available within 50km of paid for accomodation such as caravan parks/motels etc. so that narrowed the choice a bit. They also seemed to have the bright idea of tarmac-ing every free area and placing them right next to the highways, which although not busy, still roar with the sound of cars or roadtrains as there are no barriers to contain the noise, just open shrubland. So in conclusion, we decided that WA had the best bush camps while QLD was sadly lacking. In any case, we passed through some fairly non descript towns and settlements, many basing their livelihood on mining making for fairly unattractive places. Once out of the bush and along the coast, the scenery naturally improved and we were closer to our final destination in Far North Queensland.
Cairns itself is a rather souless sort of place but apparently the most heavily populated by tourists. As a backpacker, it has an abundance of choice with many, many cheesey entertainment clubs for those incapable of entertaining themselves without some form of karaoke or wet tee shirt competition. I think I may be getting rather old as it really didn't appeal. The city itelf is based around a network of streets leading to the Esplanade which looks out over ugly mud flats - to increase the appeal, the local authority has built a public outdoor lagoon/swimming pool which I admit has increased its charm slightly but wasn't enough for me to stay. We headed further north and have since spent about four months in a small, relatively upmarket town which although not great, has more character than Cairns and is far more manageable for such a period of time.
The plan so far has been for money as travel plans need cold hard cash and therefore so did we. I have found myself in jobs that I really wish I didn't have to do and certainly weren't the reasons I came half way round the world, but since it's been for a relatively short period of time I bit the bullet, gritted my teeth, you name it and got on with it. My partner has been doing the same but simultaneously studying to be a scuba diver instructor and once that is complete we shall be on the road again hopefully with some firm plans for our next stop in the world.
In some respects, it's been an interesting experience. We've met plenty of travellers and got to know quite a number of locals. I am beginning to understand why many people come to settle in Australia. The lifestyle is very relaxed (since it's so bloody hot there's no other way to be), the locals working in services are generally excellent at dealing with people from all walks of life and for the most part seem friendly, the streets are clean and everything works. On the other hand, life here is remarkably similar to home - groups of people form together and go out drinking.... and that's it. So for me, I look forward to being back on the road with all its requisite challenges and each day bringing something new.
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