No surprises that it was a very moving and sombre day. I spent most of my time staying away from the official memorials as I wasn't here last year and didn't feel right intruding on other peoples' grief. A lot of the westerners that were here last year found the day very difficult - they are reminded of what happened everyday and some felt they really didn't need a special day a year on. People who have been here a while talk about "when the 7 Eleven/bar/restaurant/hotel/backpackers was there..." in their conversation and you have to stop yourself asking where it is or why it isn't there anymore. This island is generally a young persons' island and you can see families here trying to make their holiday as best they can but their ultimate reason for being here is to see where their relative died. It is hard to see them.
There is a huge patch of land that was devasted on two sides by rising tides and tidal wave which continues as a reminder for everyone. Some parts are being reconstructed, but apparently the locals are waiting for the government to finish whatever it is they're doing before they are legally allowed to start re-building in earnest. The government is due to make it's development recommendations next June - a full 18 months after the event; local people are obviously suffering economically and angry that they are being put off and off and off.
One girl I spoke to woke up in flood water in just her knickers and bra - everything trashed, no time to salvage anything and so she ran out to escape and found herself giving away her bra to some other person who had had only just escaped as well but totally starkers. Another chap was so battered around by the tsunami he was airlifted from the island by emergency helicopter - he has some scars that are a permanent reminder to him. These are just two of the more docile stories I've heard, the others I might just keep to myself or ask permission before I can put them up here.
Needless to say the memorial garden is very moving and the "before" and "after" photos shocking in their total destruction of some parts of the island. So what more is there to be said. I hope people are able to grieve and let go on this anniversary; symbolised through the lighting of white lanterns that float up into the night; the sky was full of them. Sad but beautiful.
30 December 2005
Quintessentially Asian so far...
Small people, small clothes, clothes all one size, shoes for small people, squat toilets (good for leg muscles, bad for having a read on the loo!) along with no loo roll and hoses instead - does eveyone wander around with clean but wet botties??, covering up in respect of local culture, Chinatowns and Little Indias in abundance, hawker stalls selling everything from cooked food to fruit to clothes all for less than a pound usually, narrow streets bursting at the seams with tiny little stalls or shops, motorscooters, motorbikes, bikes, trishaws, the occasional car, no pavements, sometimes defined roads, lots of bowing in respect, complicated languages even to learn to say "hello" and "thank you", ineffiency, not quite "fiji time" but close, technological goodies next to slums, buckets of alcohol (and they really are slightly miniture versions of buckets...hmm classy!?), dodgy local brews full of impurities.... and there is of course more, I just can't think of them right now!
28 December 2005
Not Mountain Goat
There appear to be two main activities on Koh Phi Phi (apart from eating and drinking!); that is scuba diving (learning in the new year) and mountain climbing. So I thought 'd try my hand at mountain climbing on a humid but overcast day with a friend. Turns out that she is more the mountain goat than I as she hotfooted up the mountain like a pro while I quite literally hung around shouting in vain for somebody to please bloody hell bring me a crane!
We got to the base of the rock (quite an achievement in itself) and got taught a rather fancy knot in which to use to attach ourselves securely to the rope. Then on went the rather sexy (!?) belt and leg hoops up round the thighs and then last but not least some rather uncomfortable climbing shoes. Our thai instructors scrambled up secuing the rope - small and lithe they made it look easy although a little daunting as they got smaller and smaller the higher they went!
My first attempt saw me all of about 5 metres up the rock before swinging happily down (rather liked the down bit!). The idea apparently is to use the strength of your legs more so than your arms to get you up, but the angles that you find yourself in require some serious coordination and contortion especially when trying trying to get past some damn piece of overhanging rock. Our second climb was moved to an "easier" patch of rock. So they claim!! I did indeed manage about 15 metres this time but I think more out of blind stubborness than any particular skill! I had thought that it might have been easier to re-try the first rock as it was more familiar, but that was not to be.
As I was sat down watching the others skip up there (not really but it looked like it to me!) I was absolutely shattered. My arms were still shaking from the strain and my legs felt like jelly... I knew the next day or so would involve plenty of aching muscles - not wrong there - cannot dance at the mo for fear of legs buckling underneath!! Okay so maybe not quite that bad but pretty close. I'm glad I gave it a try and I now kow that I am definitively not a mountain goat, or as fit as I used to be. Need to get into training before I try that again!
We got to the base of the rock (quite an achievement in itself) and got taught a rather fancy knot in which to use to attach ourselves securely to the rope. Then on went the rather sexy (!?) belt and leg hoops up round the thighs and then last but not least some rather uncomfortable climbing shoes. Our thai instructors scrambled up secuing the rope - small and lithe they made it look easy although a little daunting as they got smaller and smaller the higher they went!
My first attempt saw me all of about 5 metres up the rock before swinging happily down (rather liked the down bit!). The idea apparently is to use the strength of your legs more so than your arms to get you up, but the angles that you find yourself in require some serious coordination and contortion especially when trying trying to get past some damn piece of overhanging rock. Our second climb was moved to an "easier" patch of rock. So they claim!! I did indeed manage about 15 metres this time but I think more out of blind stubborness than any particular skill! I had thought that it might have been easier to re-try the first rock as it was more familiar, but that was not to be.
As I was sat down watching the others skip up there (not really but it looked like it to me!) I was absolutely shattered. My arms were still shaking from the strain and my legs felt like jelly... I knew the next day or so would involve plenty of aching muscles - not wrong there - cannot dance at the mo for fear of legs buckling underneath!! Okay so maybe not quite that bad but pretty close. I'm glad I gave it a try and I now kow that I am definitively not a mountain goat, or as fit as I used to be. Need to get into training before I try that again!
22 December 2005
Ta daaa..!
So I finally made it to my Thai island , to my travel buddy extraordinnaire and in time for Christmas and the new year - hurrah!
All airports the world over look the same as do distinctly average hotels near airports; although I'm not complaining too much really cos I'm here and cos in comparison to the backpacker life it was a touch of quality if not class that broke up my journey nicely. Having also spoken to those hardy souls that tried to travel overland from southern Thailand into northern Malaysia it truely sounded like the journey from hell and involved a boat (which my rather large backpack would no doubt sink in a flash!) and so my decision to fly here in time for festive drinkies and the like is justified - another hurrah!
Koh Phi Phi was badly affected by the tsunami last Boxing Day as I'm sure the world knows. There are still areas of debris and construction going on all over the island but the main little streets have been re-built and sorted out nicely. What I hadn't realised is that the island is shaped such that the main stretch is on a horizontal narrow stretch of land and last year they had a rolling high tide that just kept on coming on the one side and an enormous wave hitting them on the other; the result? Bloody mess and chaos. Having spoken with people that were there, most ended up in the only bar on the island with three floors (obviously out of reach of waves and flood water) and drank in disbelief having previously woken up in water - the lucky ones that is. So the anniversary should prove to be a moving day for everyone - including a minutes silence, Muslim, Buddist and Christian ceremonies and an evening candle walk.
The weather here has also been causing problems over the last few days - the full moon party at Koh Pang-nan (spelling??!) had to be moved from the beach due to vicious storm weather and very high tides resulting in the death of four people - it was ultimately cancelled.
So not all cheery, but the atmosphere of this place is vibrant yet relaxed and although very touristy (which is nice to see after the exodus of tourists following the tsunami) I feel quite comfortable here... bring on the sunshine!
All airports the world over look the same as do distinctly average hotels near airports; although I'm not complaining too much really cos I'm here and cos in comparison to the backpacker life it was a touch of quality if not class that broke up my journey nicely. Having also spoken to those hardy souls that tried to travel overland from southern Thailand into northern Malaysia it truely sounded like the journey from hell and involved a boat (which my rather large backpack would no doubt sink in a flash!) and so my decision to fly here in time for festive drinkies and the like is justified - another hurrah!
Koh Phi Phi was badly affected by the tsunami last Boxing Day as I'm sure the world knows. There are still areas of debris and construction going on all over the island but the main little streets have been re-built and sorted out nicely. What I hadn't realised is that the island is shaped such that the main stretch is on a horizontal narrow stretch of land and last year they had a rolling high tide that just kept on coming on the one side and an enormous wave hitting them on the other; the result? Bloody mess and chaos. Having spoken with people that were there, most ended up in the only bar on the island with three floors (obviously out of reach of waves and flood water) and drank in disbelief having previously woken up in water - the lucky ones that is. So the anniversary should prove to be a moving day for everyone - including a minutes silence, Muslim, Buddist and Christian ceremonies and an evening candle walk.
The weather here has also been causing problems over the last few days - the full moon party at Koh Pang-nan (spelling??!) had to be moved from the beach due to vicious storm weather and very high tides resulting in the death of four people - it was ultimately cancelled.
So not all cheery, but the atmosphere of this place is vibrant yet relaxed and although very touristy (which is nice to see after the exodus of tourists following the tsunami) I feel quite comfortable here... bring on the sunshine!
20 December 2005
Stranded...sort of!
I think that it is possibly the first time in my travelling life that I have been delayed when I have 1. a deadline and 2. cannot do much about the cause of the delay! So I guess really that I should consider myself lucky that after two years of turtling round the world this is the first time.
It's coming up to Christmas, my travel buddy extraordinnaire is on a Thai island and I am in north Malaysia. Terrorism in southern Thailand and flooding in both southern Thailand and northern Malaysia up to 1.5m deep have conspired to prevent me travelling as planned by bus over the border to said Thai island. So now after much hoo-ing, haa-ing and hmm-ing with fellow stranded travellers, I have booked my sorry arse on a budget asian flight; no I lie, make that two budget asian flights. Backwards the way I came to Kuala Lumpur and then forwards again to Phuket... and then of course the ferry ride that I also need to take from Phuket. Oh hooray.
So it's still touch and go, but I hope to be where I want to be for Christmas and New Year instead of where I don't want to be muttering "b'ah humbug" to anyone that will listen!
Oh and by the way, Merry Christmas to those lucky souls who will be where they want to be!
It's coming up to Christmas, my travel buddy extraordinnaire is on a Thai island and I am in north Malaysia. Terrorism in southern Thailand and flooding in both southern Thailand and northern Malaysia up to 1.5m deep have conspired to prevent me travelling as planned by bus over the border to said Thai island. So now after much hoo-ing, haa-ing and hmm-ing with fellow stranded travellers, I have booked my sorry arse on a budget asian flight; no I lie, make that two budget asian flights. Backwards the way I came to Kuala Lumpur and then forwards again to Phuket... and then of course the ferry ride that I also need to take from Phuket. Oh hooray.
So it's still touch and go, but I hope to be where I want to be for Christmas and New Year instead of where I don't want to be muttering "b'ah humbug" to anyone that will listen!
Oh and by the way, Merry Christmas to those lucky souls who will be where they want to be!
13 December 2005
Asia Fizzle
So what to say about Malaysia? My arrival for the first time in Asia feels far more like a fizzle than a nice healthy pop! Not really seen all that much due to time constraints which is a very unusual feeling for me, but overall I'm glad that I don't have to spend too much time here. Kuala Lumpur locals are mainly unfriendly to the point of being rude and Penang is only marginally better.
It has a small element of the craziness assoicated with Asia; Chinatown and Little India areas abound in all major towns, but sadly I haven't had the chance to see inland - perhaps if I do on the way back, I may appreciate it a little more. The religious architecture is stunning - not usually high on my list for a country, but the extravagence of some of the temples is amazing and usually worth a couple of photos.
Spent over a week in Kuala Lumpur getting my head around a new country - always takes a while especially since my travel buddy extraordinnaire is in Thailand so it's just me, me and me. Got to know the Welsh/French owners of the bar downstairs from the hostel who were lovely and made me feel very welcome so that helped. Popped up the KL telecommunications Tower as well for a quick peek of the city from above - just another city really but with big hills in the background which was the one saving grace of the view. After a few failed attempts I managed to land myself on a bus to the island of Penang - really just an extension of the mainland especially now it has a bridge connected to it.
The hawker stalls both here and in Kuala Lumpur are fascinating for the frantic activities of the cooks and the most amazing smells reach my nose everytime I walk down the street. Most of the food (Indian, Malay, Chinese) is cooked fresh on the roadside and usually pretty bloody tasty as well as being super cheap - always a bonus!
So the Asia fizzle so far has been a massive assault on the senses in terms of the smells from cooking and the sounds of the traffic... although apparently nothing compared to what I am due to face elsewhere in Asia. I just hope for more friendly locals and really really have the need to be away from towns and near the ocean instead - I think I'm now cut out for the less frenetic pace of life and more for the relaxing wash of the sea... maybe I should have stayed in Fiji!!
It has a small element of the craziness assoicated with Asia; Chinatown and Little India areas abound in all major towns, but sadly I haven't had the chance to see inland - perhaps if I do on the way back, I may appreciate it a little more. The religious architecture is stunning - not usually high on my list for a country, but the extravagence of some of the temples is amazing and usually worth a couple of photos.
Spent over a week in Kuala Lumpur getting my head around a new country - always takes a while especially since my travel buddy extraordinnaire is in Thailand so it's just me, me and me. Got to know the Welsh/French owners of the bar downstairs from the hostel who were lovely and made me feel very welcome so that helped. Popped up the KL telecommunications Tower as well for a quick peek of the city from above - just another city really but with big hills in the background which was the one saving grace of the view. After a few failed attempts I managed to land myself on a bus to the island of Penang - really just an extension of the mainland especially now it has a bridge connected to it.
The hawker stalls both here and in Kuala Lumpur are fascinating for the frantic activities of the cooks and the most amazing smells reach my nose everytime I walk down the street. Most of the food (Indian, Malay, Chinese) is cooked fresh on the roadside and usually pretty bloody tasty as well as being super cheap - always a bonus!
So the Asia fizzle so far has been a massive assault on the senses in terms of the smells from cooking and the sounds of the traffic... although apparently nothing compared to what I am due to face elsewhere in Asia. I just hope for more friendly locals and really really have the need to be away from towns and near the ocean instead - I think I'm now cut out for the less frenetic pace of life and more for the relaxing wash of the sea... maybe I should have stayed in Fiji!!
05 December 2005
Suva Groover
I moved to the east coast of Viti Levu in Fiji to the capital city of Suva. Really rather a small city but as the country has less than a million people over 333 islands it's hardly surprising. So I donated my time to the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies as a Marketing Advisor and learnt buckets about the humanitarian and development world.
The office was a lovely wood floor affair with 5 local staff and about 6 international staff from Finnish to Kiwi. I stayed at a "hotel" as backpacker lodges are not really the done thing since no one really heads to Suva and it rains all the bloody time anyway. But it was definitely a budget budget hotel - no aircon, fans automatically off during the day, no laundry facilities apart from a sink and a tv lounge of joy where you couldn't eat, drink, smoke or be in any way merry inside it!
The first few days were definitely a bit on the lonesome side, but one of my colleagues took me under her wing and I got to housesit for her as well as get out and about a bit for openings, dance performances and the like which was nice to meet people and actually DO something!! After that, Latin Fitness classes were the order of the day, right up my street and met several other volunteer types there and out of the Suva rain came a social life and some Suva grooving. Traps and O'Reillys bar/clubs were the place to be and relatively safe even though I still stood out a bit like a sore thumb! But it was all very civilised - usually dinner and a few drinks first with a group of friends and for those that fancied it onwards for some dancing and more drinks. All things considered the hassle wasn't too bad and most nights of Suva groovin' were pretty good fun.
The office was a lovely wood floor affair with 5 local staff and about 6 international staff from Finnish to Kiwi. I stayed at a "hotel" as backpacker lodges are not really the done thing since no one really heads to Suva and it rains all the bloody time anyway. But it was definitely a budget budget hotel - no aircon, fans automatically off during the day, no laundry facilities apart from a sink and a tv lounge of joy where you couldn't eat, drink, smoke or be in any way merry inside it!
The first few days were definitely a bit on the lonesome side, but one of my colleagues took me under her wing and I got to housesit for her as well as get out and about a bit for openings, dance performances and the like which was nice to meet people and actually DO something!! After that, Latin Fitness classes were the order of the day, right up my street and met several other volunteer types there and out of the Suva rain came a social life and some Suva grooving. Traps and O'Reillys bar/clubs were the place to be and relatively safe even though I still stood out a bit like a sore thumb! But it was all very civilised - usually dinner and a few drinks first with a group of friends and for those that fancied it onwards for some dancing and more drinks. All things considered the hassle wasn't too bad and most nights of Suva groovin' were pretty good fun.
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