No surprises that it was a very moving and sombre day. I spent most of my time staying away from the official memorials as I wasn't here last year and didn't feel right intruding on other peoples' grief. A lot of the westerners that were here last year found the day very difficult - they are reminded of what happened everyday and some felt they really didn't need a special day a year on. People who have been here a while talk about "when the 7 Eleven/bar/restaurant/hotel/backpackers was there..." in their conversation and you have to stop yourself asking where it is or why it isn't there anymore. This island is generally a young persons' island and you can see families here trying to make their holiday as best they can but their ultimate reason for being here is to see where their relative died. It is hard to see them.
There is a huge patch of land that was devasted on two sides by rising tides and tidal wave which continues as a reminder for everyone. Some parts are being reconstructed, but apparently the locals are waiting for the government to finish whatever it is they're doing before they are legally allowed to start re-building in earnest. The government is due to make it's development recommendations next June - a full 18 months after the event; local people are obviously suffering economically and angry that they are being put off and off and off.
One girl I spoke to woke up in flood water in just her knickers and bra - everything trashed, no time to salvage anything and so she ran out to escape and found herself giving away her bra to some other person who had had only just escaped as well but totally starkers. Another chap was so battered around by the tsunami he was airlifted from the island by emergency helicopter - he has some scars that are a permanent reminder to him. These are just two of the more docile stories I've heard, the others I might just keep to myself or ask permission before I can put them up here.
Needless to say the memorial garden is very moving and the "before" and "after" photos shocking in their total destruction of some parts of the island. So what more is there to be said. I hope people are able to grieve and let go on this anniversary; symbolised through the lighting of white lanterns that float up into the night; the sky was full of them. Sad but beautiful.
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